Freezing eggs Always freeze egg whites and yolks

separately and thaw completely and safely in
the fridge. Excess egg whites freeze and defrost
like a dream; just break up the icy crystals well
before using. Freezing yolks is a little different in
that the frozen yolk will become gelatinous upon
defrosting, leaving hard yellow flecks in your food.

To stop this, hand whisk 5 g/ml (⅛ oz) heavy sugar
syrup – simmer 100 g (3½ oz) sugar with 50 g/
ml (1¾ oz) water and cool – into 100 g (3½ oz)
egg yolks, then press a piece of plastic wrap to
the surface. Note the weight of the yolks and the
amount of sugar syrup used on the top of the
container and reduce the sugar by that amount
in the recipe.

Whipping myths Ignore puritanical baking

doctrines of the past. Make sure your bowl is
regular clean – no need to rub with lemon or
vinegar. Whites will still whip with a speckle of
yolk, they’ll just take a little longer to stabilise.
But they will still whip.

Shell out Use a cracked egg shell half to scoop

out any yolks in your whites. Dip the shell half in,
isolate the stray yolk to the side of the bowl and
drag it up and out against the side. The egg shell
is sharp enough to cut the gloopy whites and
free the yolky intruder. Go nature, you brilliant
solution-giving babe!
Egg wash Combine one egg yolk and a pinch
of salt for maximum tackiness and colour
enhancement. For internal sticking power
(no surface colour needed), use a spare egg
white or whole egg. Whichever way you wash,
whisk it well to break up the gloopy egg proteins,
and only apply enough for a tacky film.

Yeast
Although peskier to find than dried yeast,
I will always choose fresh yeast for the earthy
perfume it imparts. To find fresh yeast , ask in
the deli section of a fresh produce market or
more culturally diverse supermarkets. Buy small
amounts and keep it well wrapped in the fridge
for a maximum of two weeks – it should flake, not
smoosh, as you pull it apart.

Dried yeast – instant This is the most commonly

found type of dried yeast, and can be added straight
to the flour (no need to dissolve). Multiply the fresh
yeast gram amount by 0.3. For example: 30 g (1 oz)
fresh yeast = 10 g (¼ oz) instant dried yeast.

Dead or alive? To test, briefly whisk together

2 teaspoons yeast, 35 g (1¼ oz/¼ cup) plain
(all-purpose) flour, 60 g/ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) tepid
water and a good pinch of sugar. Set aside for
5 minutes, then draw your finger across to break
the surface. No bubbles = dead and time to buy
new yeast. If there are fine honeycomb bubbles,
you can be confident … to say the yeast!

Let’s chew the (other delicious) fat(s)
Old timey fats don’t get a lot of play in modern
baking, but they are unique in the flavour and
structure they impart. And if you eat meat, it’s
a nose-to-tail approach to consumption. I’ve
introduced them in their recipes, and always
with a vegetarian alternative.

30 g (1 oz) fresh yeast
= 10 g (¼ oz) dried